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Author Topic: What a great weekend for riding!  (Read 2953 times)
andy750
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« Reply #15 on: April 12, 2011, 01:32:47 PM »

If you can get it to start/turn over with the screwdriver trick then likely that your spare solenoid is also crap. Been there done that. Think of what starts the bike:

1. Coils  - connections all good? Hooked up correctly - I tried for 10 min once trying to start the bike with 2/3 coils going to 1/4 plugs. Nice backfire effect.
2. Spark plugs - all clean and not already fouled
3. Spark plug wires/caps all making good contact?
4. Starter solenoid  - is it working? Screwdriver trick seems to indicate not.
5. Fuses all good - do you get lights/idiot lights when turn key on- no? then fix this first before trying to start it - look in headlight bucket for correct connections. 
6. Starter button v. kickstart - can you kickstart it with ignition on - remember not to flood engine....
7. I am assuming you have enough gas.
8. Dyna or points? Hooked up properly - good connections?
9. Leads to battery good? I didnt have enough connectivity between leads and battery one time and couldnt start the bike.

Look at wiring diagram and make sure the essential connections for starting the bike are all solid. Starter---headlight bucket connections---wiring harness--points---coils--plugs--battery--solenoid--rectifier/regulator.

Good luck! Test and narrow it down.

Andy
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azure
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« Reply #16 on: April 12, 2011, 10:07:06 PM »

First, I am no electrical expert. Secondly, What do you measure across the battery when you turn on the ignition switch? The main problem sounds like a drain when trying to start the bike, as an addendum to Andy's comprehensive reply, I have had a bad starter that would drain the battery quicker than a a one legged man in an ass kicking contest. If you charge the battery, and start the bike with the kick starter, will it still lose charge as you ride it?
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knowsnothing
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« Reply #17 on: April 13, 2011, 09:03:27 AM »

thanks Andy and Ben.

Andy i need to just take a few hours to sit down and go through it all.  Its more of a motivation thing right now.

Ben, before lost everything.  I could turn it on and kick it over.  The battery seemed to stay/gain charge if i kept it over 4-5K rpm.  So i guess whats wrong is somewhere in the control, solenoid, ignition, or wiring somewhere.
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Alan F.
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« Reply #18 on: April 13, 2011, 09:30:29 AM »

Treeve have you actually checked each of your fuses with your meter set to the Ohms scale? Another simple thing is to simply unplug and reconnect each connector one at a time, inspecting the pins inside the connectors as you go....one critical pin may have developed some corrosion over the winter. Improbable but easy to check. Have you changed or added anything since the bike was running last year?
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andy750
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« Reply #19 on: April 13, 2011, 10:21:48 AM »

One last thing Treeve...on the K8 the plastic connector below the ignition barrel has a nasty habit of coming loose...cable tie that sucker in! Many many years ago I spent a good hour kicking and bump starting my old F2 in a shopping car park (great amusement for the punters)..only to discover it was the plastic connector!!!! Of course I had been towed home by that point Sad

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azure
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« Reply #20 on: April 13, 2011, 12:04:25 PM »

thanks Andy and Ben.

Andy i need to just take a few hours to sit down and go through it all.  Its more of a motivation thing right now.

Ben, before lost everything.  I could turn it on and kick it over.  The battery seemed to stay/gain charge if i kept it over 4-5K rpm.  So i guess whats wrong is somewhere in the control, solenoid, ignition, or wiring somewhere.

it would be a good idea to read the section of the Clymer manual that deals with the stator charging system. You need to put a meter in line with the 3 yellow stator phase wires and check to see that you're making adequate voltage at selected RPM. If so, it's not a charging issue. If yes, you may have a stator or rectifier problem. The rectifier is adjustible I believe, but read the manual, it's a good reference.
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frostypuck
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« Reply #21 on: April 13, 2011, 12:24:11 PM »

Regulator is adjustable, but might be solid state by the K8 and thus -not adjustable.
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jay_m1
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« Reply #22 on: April 13, 2011, 12:25:52 PM »

the hondaman book is not bad on this either (i have a copy that you can borrow if you want). the rectifier test is quite easy to do, as is the voltage regulator.

i am also chasing some phantom charging issues, and i think i've narrowed it down to the regulator, which, luckily, is very easily adjustable. also, the contacts in and around it can get gummed up, creating resistance. it should be limiting current at around 14.5 volts, which you should be reaching by 4k, and definitely by 5k.

in any event, the first thing i did was clean every electrical contact i could, which was a good idea, since they were all horrendously corroded. it doesnt take long at all to get that out of the way, and will cut down significantly on the number of variables you will need to rule out.
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jay_m1
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« Reply #23 on: April 13, 2011, 12:46:15 PM »

oops, yes. it may be solid state on the k8.
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lazyguy400F
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« Reply #24 on: April 13, 2011, 01:04:33 PM »

I haven't read through the whole electrical saga, but don't forget the starter and kill switch connections can get a bit dicey and mimic all sorts of other problems.

Good luck!

-peter

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jay_m1
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« Reply #25 on: April 13, 2011, 08:49:09 PM »

for what its worth, i have settled on the joe rocket blaster 2.0 perforated leather pants, as they have all the features i am looking for, and i found them somewhere online for significantly less than the $225 most shops seem to be charging.
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Alan F.
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« Reply #26 on: April 13, 2011, 10:28:15 PM »

Do tell Jay!
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jay_m1
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« Reply #27 on: April 13, 2011, 10:40:02 PM »

chaparral motorsports. $150 for the ones in my size (32. . . being slightly optimistic)
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andy750
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« Reply #28 on: April 17, 2011, 07:58:02 PM »

Another great day (Sunday) for riding...didnt do much except help Jay and David synch their carbs and then go into work....on the K2 Wink

So time for  a pre-dyno run.....

I hit the ton today...recorded by GPS - 104 mph at indicated 6800 rpm (was pretty stable) in top gear (done on a closed course since I dont condone speeding on public roads as that would be irresponsible  :Smiley). Stock speedo was surprisingly accurate. 

Pics shows aftermath...




Going home..



Dyno on Saturday...all welcome to come along...10am the fun starts.

Andy

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jay_m1
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« Reply #29 on: April 17, 2011, 09:27:12 PM »

thanks for the help andy. i replaced my busted spark plug boot and finished the sync. i had to cut the cable awfully close, but its still usable. it definitely feels smoother and a little more responsive now, though perhaps not outside of the placebo-effect margin of error. next up will be a clutch adjustment, as it seems so be sliding out of step once again, though just a little. any advice would be much appreciated.

after crashing into your flower pot with my volvo, i went out with david down through the blue hills--a beautiful ride, and a nice day for some cornering. my bike was idling far more stably than it has in a long time. all around a great time.
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