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Author Topic: Shifting issue under load  (Read 1711 times)
jay_m1
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« on: April 15, 2011, 12:39:06 AM »

Took the day off tomorrow to generally hang around and relax, while maybe doing a few maintenance projects on the 750. Unfortunately something new started to pop up on this evenings ride that I wasn't suspecting--clutch issues. All the sudden, out of nowhere, I'm starting to have trouble shifting from 2nd to 3rd. It just won't kick up, and I have to try hard (while riding fast enough that I need to shift), until it goes, which usually takes 3 to 5 attempts. It doesn't happen all the time. I would say it happened maybe 4 times in a the span of a half hour. It has never happened before, and I have noticed no other problems with any aspect of shifting. Though it does seem that in the last few rides it has occasionally become somewhat more difficult to find neutral. It's only a very occasional issue, but it never used to come up. Maybe just an oil change? Some other adjustment? Any advice?
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azure
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« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2011, 07:52:49 AM »

Try the oil change Jay and see if it helps. It's done it for me a couple of times. Also make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly with the proper amount of free play. When was the last time the oil was changed? What viscosity oil are you using? Mineral or synth?
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Alan F.
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« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2011, 07:56:35 AM »

Hi Jay, just asking a few more things that might be helpful to know... was the bike rather hot when the issue came up each time? Is your oil old? Is there plenty of oil in there? What brand clutch is in there and how many miles are on it? (although it doesn't sound like a clutch issue to me) Thanks and good luck Jay, these guys will get you sorted in a jiffy.-Alan
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andy750
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« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2011, 08:39:54 AM »

I doubt this is your issue (which sounds more like clutch adjustment - maybe) but...under the gear shifter cover its not uncommon for one of the screws next to the gear shifter drum to undo itself and it gets stuck in the drum thus not allowing upshifting and finally no shifting. Happened to me a few times on the K4 (once in the Alps on a steep mountain side). Alternatively worst case scenario is you have worn gears and your gear selector is not engaging - this would be a bottom end job. But I dont think its that at this point - best to adjust the clutch first and take it from there....if you do remove the gear shifter cover - new gasket afterwards and oil will come out.

good luck
Andy
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CB750K4 (long distance bike)
CB810K2 road racer
DL1000 2003 - ice breaker
jay_m1
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« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2011, 08:57:16 AM »

i got this bike last august, and am yet to change the oil myself. first thing i did when i got it home was take it to extra performance in dorchester and have it tuned up, including oil change, valve adjustment, timing, etc. i did all the rest myself (brake mc rebuild, wheel bearings, chains and sprockets, etc.). that was about 1400 miles ago. the bike only has a hair over 15000 miles on the odometer to begin with. i am not entirely sure what oil he used when he did it. after reading much on the main board, i am terrified of asking anybody on the internet which oil i should use myself, so im going to run down to advanced auto parts and grab some rotella T 5w-40 (take this as a passeive aggressive way of asking for oil advice). i will also check the clutch adjustment. maybe its that--it sounds most likely, but i was just hoping to get the spectrum of things i should check.

this was only happening last night. it was fairly cool out, and i was essentially in zero stop and go traffic, so the bike was definitely not particularly hot.
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Alan F.
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« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2011, 09:36:15 AM »

Rotella 15-40 non-synthetic, search the posts here, i asked a while back and was pointed that way myself. Your bike will love it. could your oil level simply be low?
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andy750
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« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2011, 10:13:39 AM »

Rotella non-synth is fine to use. I use it in my K4. Or I use Valvoline Motorcycle 10W-40 from Advanced Auto just because its there. I have also used Castrol GTX 10-40 (Spring/Fall) or 20-50W (car oil) in my bikes for years with no dire consequences. As long as oil is changed every 2000 miles or so (and filter every second change) you are good to go. Search for Ofreen (Greg) on the main forum - he has over 100K on his bike and he uses car oil (penzoil I think). He has never had top end work done. In summer switch to 20-50W especially when riding round town and your bike is getting hotter. Change back to 10-40 in September.

Ill be in the garage doing a carb tune with David on Sunday if you want to drop by and can help with the clutch if needed.

cheers
Andy

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CB750K4 (long distance bike)
CB810K2 road racer
DL1000 2003 - ice breaker
jay_m1
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« Reply #7 on: April 15, 2011, 02:17:38 PM »

looks like alan was right--rookie error. while not catastrophic, my oil level was pretty low. drained everything and filled it back up with rotella 15-40. everything is back to smooth operation now.

if only it werent relatively frigid today on my day off i would spend the rest of it riding around. alas.
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Alan F.
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« Reply #8 on: April 15, 2011, 03:03:52 PM »

Very good Jay, i didn't put much probability on low oil level....but it is the simplest cause i could think of. Your clutch could possibly still need a tweak too so i'd take Andy up on his offer if you have the time, its always educational to be around the more savvy members.
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andy750
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« Reply #9 on: April 15, 2011, 03:09:46 PM »

if only it werent relatively frigid today on my day off i would spend the rest of it riding around. alas.

Frigid?Huh? This is perfect riding weather!!! CB750s love bright, fresh sunshine days - dosent get much better than this!!! Get away from the computer, bundle up and go ride the Blue  Hills - perfect day for it!

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CB750K4 (long distance bike)
CB810K2 road racer
DL1000 2003 - ice breaker
jay_m1
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« Reply #10 on: April 15, 2011, 03:22:08 PM »

already did that, andy!

perhaps im just getting bitter over the fact that its not 70 degrees yet. in any event, i will take you up on your sunday offer. i need to observe the carb-syncing process anyhow.

like i said, oil wanst super-duper low, but it was only around 1/3 of the way between the upper and lower leves on the dip stick, which is not where i want it to be.

thanks for the help.
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Alan F.
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« Reply #11 on: April 15, 2011, 04:11:49 PM »

Did you measure your oil level with the bike on the center or side stand? It makes a difference.
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jay_m1
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« Reply #12 on: April 15, 2011, 05:36:11 PM »

yup, up on the center stand before and after the bike was warmed up.
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azure
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« Reply #13 on: April 15, 2011, 10:13:38 PM »

Great Jay,

I'm glad it was easy! I pretty much always check oil when the engine is cool and most of it is in the tank or sump. Does anybody do it differently?
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