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Author Topic: The Top End Rebuild Thread - 1977 CB550  (Read 6248 times)
knowsnothing
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« Reply #30 on: November 17, 2012, 01:43:54 AM »

Yeah Ben, i think i read him mention that somewhere too.  I also think he uses F bolts because the are beefier than the K ones.  Not sure about 550s though.
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cabrala
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« Reply #31 on: November 17, 2012, 02:33:16 AM »

I have an email into Mike about a few things. I'm just waiting to hear back from him. Keep throwing suggestions my way as I am making a list of things to do and some are not there already. Thanks guys.
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azure
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« Reply #32 on: November 17, 2012, 04:56:52 AM »

Yeah Ben, i think i read him mention that somewhere too.  I also think he uses F bolts because the are beefier than the K ones.  Not sure about 550s though.

That sounds right Treeve. Alex, Mike gets a ton of email and sometimes misses them. I may see him today, but if not I will ask him about how to best contact him. I think he will have his own suggestions as to what can be done to help.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2012, 05:01:06 AM by azure » Logged
cabrala
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« Reply #33 on: November 17, 2012, 09:21:15 AM »

Appreciate that Ben. I figured he would be filled to the hills with emails, so any better way of getting in touch would be a huge help.
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cabrala
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« Reply #34 on: November 18, 2012, 10:34:32 PM »

After work today, I decided to come home and continue clearing out the innards of my split cases in my new "workshop" Grin ...

BEFORE:






AFTER:






Trisha's office has become my garage but she's a trooper about it (notice her drafting table is still there!).

So as said above, I am working on removing all parts of the cases that can be removed in order to prep for a thorough cleaning and new paint job.

Starter motor gears


Kick-starter shaft and gearing






Shift drum




Shift forks



Now onto the question of how to remove the shift spindle? It has some ball-bearings on one end and a funny looking connector on the other side. I aired on the side of caution here as to not start forcing things apart. That funny connector also has a very difficult screw; even with the impact driver. Ears are open for "how-to's"...





« Last Edit: November 19, 2012, 12:30:56 PM by cabrala » Logged
cabrala
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« Reply #35 on: November 18, 2012, 10:37:54 PM »

Quick picture of the spare engine courtesy of Santa's delivery on Saturday. Treeve, feel free to throw up a pic of YOUR present Tongue

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knowsnothing
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« Reply #36 on: November 18, 2012, 11:27:05 PM »

If the shift drum is anything like a 750s, you will need to take the neutral switch out, which is on the bottom of the 750.  Not sure about that funny connector.  Maybe search the main boards and then talk to anders just to be sure.
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cabrala
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« Reply #37 on: November 18, 2012, 11:41:13 PM »

If the shift drum is anything like a 750s, you will need to take the neutral switch out, which is on the bottom of the 750.  Not sure about that funny connector.  Maybe search the main boards and then talk to anders just to be sure.

Anders has already been in touch! Grin

He sent me a text shortly after posting telling me to remove the stuck screw (funny connector) with a better impact driver; one with an interchangeable 3/8" or 1/2" drive. I have to bring the cases to him soon anyway for help removing the primary chain, drive and crank, so we can use some sweet tools then.

Anywho, once that is done I can clamp a slide hammer onto a 6mm screw or threaded rod, insert it into the ball-bearing end (into the shift spindle) and pull it out. Until then I will be tearing down the other motor and getting it to the point where I can bring it all up to NH for one-stop shopping.
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knowsnothing
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« Reply #38 on: November 19, 2012, 11:36:10 AM »

Treeve, feel free to throw up a pic of YOUR present Tongue

As requested, my new present.  Sorry for the shitty cell phone pic.   Was too lazy to go upstairs and get the camera at the time and its now too late as the tear down process has begun.

« Last Edit: November 19, 2012, 05:53:47 PM by knowsnothing » Logged

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cabrala
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« Reply #39 on: November 25, 2012, 04:37:59 PM »

Spent Saturday tearing down the spare motor with hopes of finding good bores, pistons, rods and crank. Had no real issues except the occasional lack of patience and a cam chain tensioner was uninterested in being evicted from its home of 30+ years. I walked away a few times, which helped me to not bugger something up real good.



The beginning of a nest


Not so bad after all



The pistons and rods are moving freely and the bores, to my untrained eye, look to be very usable in my rebuild. I'll be having Anders take a look at them when I make my way back up to the shop in coming weeks.





Removal of clutch






Documenting case bolts







Took me a while to break the cases free due to thinking I removed all of the bolts until I kept finding more Grin . A few whacks with a rubber mallet broke the seal and some finesse with a pry-bar got them separated.






I don't have the proper tools to remove the primary shaft (according to the manual) and while I have plans to have it removed properly, I couldn't help but research some options...

Spark plug


Thread in a spark plug and tap at the hex nut (on the plug) while rotating the shaft. This didn't work for me because
1) I have the option to remove it correctly soon, so why risk it?
2) The directions in the "Tips & Tricks" section were a bit vague in terms of tapping at the plug.

Tapping or drifting from behind the oil pump




There isn't very much of the shaft showing that I can get a wooden (soft) drift onto. Is it expected that I tap on the bearing, as that seems to have the most area showing?

Additionally, there was the option of using one of the long engine bolts (that attach it to the frame). The thread is again the same as the primary shaft and can be fitted with some weighted spacers or sockets; used as a slide hammer. I didn't try this method as I didn't have the proper materials at the ready.

In conclusion today, it looks as though I have most of the parts I will need to button up my cases and get another 30 years out of her. I'm also trying to take into account any parts that should be replaced because, well, it's already apart; so if you have an opinion please make it known.
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cabrala
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« Reply #40 on: December 31, 2012, 11:49:16 AM »

Hey guys. Good New Year's Eve morning.

It's been a bit slow around my house, but I have recently begun the hunt for parts to start buttoning back up the cases; getting the mighty 550 into running condition. Be patient with me here on this post. Grin

Problem #1: I'm trying to select the bearings, both main and rod, but at the moment I've focused on identifying the mains.

The manual states to pull the crank and reassemble the cases without the bearings. Mic' the journals of the crank, with the measurement falling into either "1" or "2" in the table. Then, using a cylinder gauge, measure the diameter of the seats, with these measurements falling into "A", "B" or "C" in another table. You end up with each journal and seat having a specific number/letter combination which corresponds to the final table and lists the type of bearing needed, "A", "B," "C" or "D" (black, brown, green or yellow). See attached photos.

I have neither a cylinder gauge to measure the seat diameters nor a torque wrench to tighten the cases to spec, so I was hoping to find another method using the production marks stamped on the lower crankcase in conjunction with the numbers stamped on the crank. The lower case is engraved with "BBBBB", while the crank is stamped with "1A-M-1A-1A-1". I am most uncertain with the crank numbers but that was the best I could see and make out. My thought was to take the "B" off of the case and the "1" off of the crank, insert them into the final table (in the manual) to determine bearing color...in this case greens.

The "1A's" and "1" on the crank were stamped in a faded black while the "M" was actually engraved into the cast iron counter-weight.

I know the above is a bit wordy, but I'm hoping for some insight and experience.

Problem #2: The cases and jugs are fresh out of an ultrasonic cleaning and need to be prepped for paint. I was hoping to soda blast them but is there really any place to do that at this time of year; assuming most are blasting outdoors? Maybe you have some other ideas for prep that can be more...contained? I'm open to ideas here.

Additionally needed are thoughts and methods for masking off the parts for prep and paint. Andy, I remember reading a build of yours (I think the racer) about some MRieck tricks for painting the engine. Again, I am all for being sent some information to research.

I think that's all for now! Hopefully see you all in January. Happy New Year!
« Last Edit: December 31, 2012, 12:03:13 PM by cabrala » Logged
frostypuck
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« Reply #41 on: December 31, 2012, 08:18:36 PM »

I can't help you with problem #1, because its New Years Eve and I only got thru the first sentence and a half, but you are welcome to bring your cases to Plainville and use my soda blasting stuff to DIY.
Chris
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cabrala
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« Reply #42 on: December 31, 2012, 11:30:04 PM »

I can't help you with problem #1, because its New Years Eve and I only got thru the first sentence and a half, but you are welcome to bring your cases to Plainville and use my soda blasting stuff to DIY.
Chris

I don't blame you for not making it through Problem #1; it was definitely a bit long.

As far as Problem #2...it sounds like something I would like to take you up on. If you let me know when you think you'll be over in Plainville, I will clear the schedule and be there with some soda.

Happy New Year, I'm off for some drinks. See you all on the other side!
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frostypuck
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« Reply #43 on: January 01, 2013, 03:09:38 PM »

Any friday or saturday night is good. I've still got 25 lbs of fine soda left, but was going to pick up another 50 pounder of course grit soon anyway.

Chris
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cabrala
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« Reply #44 on: January 01, 2013, 03:19:16 PM »

Any friday or saturday night is good. I've still got 25 lbs of fine soda left, but was going to pick up another 50 pounder of course grit soon anyway.

Chris

Well if this Saturday (5th) works for you, I can be there in the evening. I'll throw cash your way for some soda if you grab a bag. Thanks for offering up the shop; appreciate it.
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